Day 16 – Last day! Wood River to Stanley

Day 16 – Last day! Also 10 year anniv. of start of ’97 Tour
Wood River to Stanley - 55.8 miles, 4:00, 13.8 avg

Had a good last night on tour. A neighbor, Stan, invited me over for pork roast and potatoes. So, I had a traditional Mormon camp meal! Complete with Jell-o. Four kids and Mom also. Oldest boy, Justin, going to BYU, and three younger girls, who all seemed to be afraid of me. Mom said they thought I would bite. All were very reserved and well behaved. After dinner we made “pies” with those sandwich cooker things. They had lots of games and a very lavish camp, complete with an outdoor TV for video game playing. It was a great time.

A lazy morning ensued, I think knowing it was the last day drained some motivation. Up Galena Pass was beautiful and pretty easy. Had a big muffin at Galena Lodge that powered me over the climb.

The last pass of the tour. Can you tell the end is near?

The descent was a screamer and had amazing views of the massive wall of the Sawtooths. I had forgotten that these mountains really do rival the Tetons for awe-inspiration.

The Sawtooth Mtns

Had a good visit to the Stanley Ranger Station, the ranger was very helpful and wanted to know about my trip. Flew into Stanley with a downhill tailwind the whole way from the pass. I think this is the first time the whole tour! It was great. I quickly found that all the hotels in town were full, but a chance visit to the largest one found a last-minute cancellation. We had a room!

I’ve showered, had a beer, watching TV in comfort, and it actually rained. First real rain I’ve seen in two weeks! Good timing I guess.

Looking forward to the next adventure! (You gotta enlarge this one)

Please check out my personal website, Tour Tales, for more bike touring fun.

Day 15 – Craters to Wood River Campground, Sawtooths Scenic Hwy

Day 15 – Craters to Wood River Campground, Sawtooths Scenic Hwy
78.8 miles, 5:37, 13.6 avg

Nice morning in the Craters, more shade from my lovely Limber pine. Which, I learned from the program last night, is probably a couple thousand years old. Can that be right?

My ancient Limber pine

Anyway, very fun downhill from the campground, went on forever. Payback for coming in yesterday! Caught up with the two touristas from the camp ground. I thought they were just day trippers because of their light loads, but they actually rode in from Hailey. Nate and Teresa, from Boise, were doing an over-nighter in preparation for Nate doing a Portland to SF tour in September. He had no panniers because they hadn’t come in yet. We all chatted the whole way to Bellevue. I hipped him to Tour Tales, he hipped me to the bike path that runs all the way into and past Ketchum. Also learned that two other touristas went through the Monument yesterday on their way to Rhode Island. Can’t believe I missed them! Did some shopping in Ketchum, the Beverly Hills of Idaho, and went on into the Sawtooth Rec. Area. Found a nice camp ground a few miles in. Will go over Galena Pass into Stanley tomorrow to meet Miss Elizabeth, if she ever leaves home…

Day 14 – Blackfoot to Craters of the Moon

Day 14 – Blackfoot to Craters of the Moon
82.6 miles, 6:28, 12.7 avg

A good day until the end. Got a pretty early start to beat some heat. Half the way to Arco it was actually cloudy and there was a thunderstorm. Big drops and some thunder near the Idaho National Laboratory.

Middle of nowhere, ID (please click to read mileages!)

Close-up of my "shield"

Arco was clear, but not too hot. Overall, it was a good desert crossing. Luckily for me, Arco was celebrating its Atomic Days, July 17, 1955, when they first turned on the nuke juice to power the city. There was a booth advertising free radiation testing for former employees of the reactor. Lots of food and good times to be had, the whole town was there. A classic car show, dunk tank, etc. For me, an Atomic Burger from Pickles. I also recreated the famous Arco photo from Tour ’97, not as exciting with no people in it, though.

Arco photo 2007. Minus a tree.

I left town with a hopefully semi-easy 18 miles to Craters. Yeah right. The first half was good, mostly down and very little wind. Then, as usual, I started going up and then the headwind kicked in. The climb up to the park was bigger than I had anticipated and I guess the Atomic Burger wasn’t enough food, because I quickly fell apart. A couple of mandatory rest stops and some fig newtons later, and I arrived at the Visitors Center where I learned it was 100°. Got some good info and a 7UP.

My "backyard" at Craters camp

Campground is OK, right amongst the lava flows. I’ll check out the Ranger Program tonight.

Wildlife today:

• 5 or 6 pronghorn
• Calling burrowing owl
• Clark’s Nutcracker

Cinder cones on the way to Arco



Storm's edge on way to Arco

Day 13 – Friday! Lava to Blackfoot

Day 13 – Friday! July 13 - Lava to Blackfoot
64.9 miles, 4:39, 13.9 avg

Lazy morning, still left before most people got up. Good downhill to McCammon. Luckily found Old Hwy 91, so didn’t have to ride on 15. One of the best roads of the whole tour! Easy rollers, no wind, no traffic, cool volcanic cliffs. Ran into pack of road racing women who rode with me into town, Pocatello. Janet took me all the way downtown (I would’ve never found on my own), to the bike shop and pointed out places to eat. Dean at shop showed me route out of town, and we talked about riding in P town. Pizza was good lunch. Oh yeah, Pocatello has a cool old downtown, lots of old brick buildings.

Mellow ride out and through Fort Hall Indian Res., only two dogs chased me. Ran into another cyclist who told me roads to take. Stopped at store in Fort Hall. People on the Res. seemed to be into what I was doing. Got into Blackfoot and checked out town a bit. Also some good old buildings. Staying at the Y Motel. I guess that is the question, “Why?” Could be a loud Friday night, some homeys hanging around. A fight broke out not even a half hour after I got here. Looks to be a hot ride through the desert tomorrow. Got to leave early.

To be continued... Day 12

As of today, Matt is at Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho. He decided to head to the Sawtooth mountains.

I'll be leaving Tucson tomorrow morning and joining him there on Monday. Check back in next weekend for more trip stories and photos!

Update!

Day 12 – Garden City to Lava Hot Springs, ID
86 miles, 6:33, 13.1 avg

New state! Pretty good day of riding with a couple of tough spots. Tried to leave GC a little early keeping hopes alive that I could make it all the way to Pocatello. Early on I could tell it wasn’t going to happen. No downhills anywhere and wind seemed to start early. Cool farmland right after Idaho border. With hazy/smoky skies it almost felt like a fall morning. Took a quick tour of the Paris Tabernacle at the urging of the nice people there. It was well worth the 10 minutes! The builders quarried and stored stones for 20 years before they started construction!

Paris Tabernacle

Fancy woodwork!

Quick stop in Montpelier. Had to nap in Georgetown. Got real painful before lunch in Soda Springs. Rejuvenated, I just happened to catch the eruption of the Geyser, the only “manmade” one in the world. It was a fairly easy ride west along the Cal/Ore Trail to base of last climb before Lava. Not too bad, and great descent right into the campground! Toured town a bit to check out the river scene. Lots of rafters and tubers! Have to go back cuz no phone here at the campground. There’s even Thai food!

Looks real, doesn't it?

Day 11 - Bear Lake

Quote of the Day: "The first time on the trip [he] felt horrible."

Calling from Laketown, Utah, Matt had just completed a hard climb over the mountains and down to the lake. He'd been battling afternoon headwinds, and they were wiping him out. He had a daily dilemma -- should he stop in the early afternoon after lunch and make do with wherever he was for the rest of the day? The sites were not inspiring. Or should he press on and risk another killer headwind?

At Bear Lake State Park, Matt observed lots of people sitting in their trucks and idling their engines. There was plenty of diesel.

After spending the night in Evanston, he declared that it was "not that bad" there after all. His lonely neighbor Leroy at the RV park come over to Matt's site and offered him some cantaloupe. They hung out for a quite a while talking. Larry was in the area for his work, installing vinyl siding. He had a wife back home in Denver, but he only saw her when he went home in between jobs.

Another neighbor at the next site sat in a chair all day drinking sodas. He didn't have a vehicle and may have been homeless, but he was quiet and caused no trouble.

On the bright side of the bike touring routine, Matt has got his down pat. He knows where everything is in his panniers at all times, and grocery shopping only takes 10 minutes.

Matt's not sure where he should go next. To the Sawtooths in Idaho, or maybe up toward Missoula? Then again, the Tetons are only 150 miles away...

Update!

Day 11 – Evanston to Garden City, UT
68.1 miles, 4:48, 14.2 avg

OK, another RV park. The State Park was a bust. Only 2 tent sites left (out of 100s!) and they were sad. Thought I’d take my chances in Garden City. Pretty mellow so far, not much shade. Ride was OK today, not too hard. Lots of asphalting going on outside Evanston. Slow grind climb over pass right before Laketown. Good downhill there. Bike path into GC.

Last night wasn’t so bad after Don Pedro’s (food not so special, but got stuffed). Freaky guy next door turned out to be OK. Other neighbor, Leroy, came over with cantaloupe and we chatted for a while. Seems he was lonely too. He’s from near Denver and installs vinyl siding all over the west. Must be tough to be away from his wife so often.

Lonely horse on the way to Bear lake

Day 9 & 10 - Hayden Pass to Evanston, Wyoming

Quote of the Day: "I'm in Wyoming. There's sagebrush and cowboy hats everywhere."


Matt spent the night of July 9 in the Uinta Mountains. He camped next to a creek, and enjoyed seeing red squirrels and even marmots! It was an idyllic mountain paradise.

Evanston, a "party town" according to one Utah local, was not as impressive. His camp site was at a "crappy" RV park with no shade, situated next to a warehouse and car wrecking yard. Getting to Evanston wasn't easy either. The headwind was so strong, he felt like he could barely move the pedals for the last 10 miles.

Making the best of it, Matt enjoyed a "very so so" meal at Don Pedro's Mexican Food restaurant. At least the chips and salsa were pretty good!

Update!

Day 9 – Heber to Cobblerest campground on Mirror Lake Scenic Hwy
42.0 miles, 3:35, 11.7 avg

Feeling no power today after yesterday’s efforts. People at ACE set me up to fix rack. Wasted time going backward to Ranger Station (one in Kamas much better). Climb up to top of dam was short and brutal, took a lot out of me. Little climb up to Francis really brutal (>10%). Kamas was cool little town, had lunch at local deli/café where the cool kids work. Lots of kids in these small towns are “punk”. Dyed hair, piercings and cool clothes all the way. And they’re only like 14, or at least they look 14. Is that legal in Utah?

Heading up Hwy 150 (click for larger version)

So, headed out Hwy 150, and it’s not so bad. Ups and downs with a tailwind even. But just not feeling it today. Struggling. Amazing scenery though. Big peaks, big valleys, running water everywhere. I actually rode with someone for about 6 miles! This took my mind off the pain and actually picked my pace up a bit. Dave from SLC is up for a few days of relaxing (by riding to the top of the pass!). We had a good talk about touring, le Tour, etc. He was buff, so I let him take off as I stopped at Cobblerest, cuz the next campground is 7 miles and 1000ft higher. So, I guess I’m half way up. Right in the middle of 4000ft of climbing in about 35 miles. No water here, but the really nice hosts went down to the last campground and brought me up 5 gallons! I guess I'm too lazy to use that water filter, but 5 gallons! I didn't have the strength to pump that! Awesome. Scenery supposed to get really good tomorrow.

"My" creek at Cobblerest camp

My life spread over the Cobblerest site (click for magnified view of my junk)

Day 10 – Cobblerest to Evanston, WY
63.2 miles, 4:47, 12.7 avg

Very strange right now in the Evanston RV park. Sketchy people, ugly place. Kinda wished I stayed in a motel. I miss Utah already! Had a really fun day in the mountains, though. The higher I went, the big peaks came into view. Bald Mtn pass wasn’t as hard as I expected for 10,700 ft, and scenery was awe inspiring. The other side was awesome, opening to a big view of the Mirror Lake basin and the 13,000 ft peaks surrounding it. Looked like Glacier NP. Spent some time around Mirror Lake, taking pictures and had lunch. Went down about 3000 ft, and it wasn’t enough! Headwind got to me about 15 miles from E town. Pain. Hot spots on my feet really hurting me. Anyway, I’m waiting for it to cool down enough to go eat at Pedro’s. Got to get out of here early tomorrow.

What wimp wrote this?

View into Mirror Lake basin from Bald Mtn Pass

The parting of the waters (click to if you want to read the sign)

Probably my best lunch spot of the tour, Mirror Lake Scenic Hwy

Alpine splendor!